Baltic Sea, Pommern and Masuren July 2007

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Introduction:

We took the train "City-Night-Line" from Zurich (21.00h) to Berlin (10.00h). With some delay, ca.2 hours, due to railway personnel strikes, we arrived, alert in Berlin. In the sunshine we found the way out of the city at once. When we got to the border of Poland at Schwedt, it began to rain for two days with interruption. Fortunately we had tail wind until Masuren. We cycled via Stettin, the Baltic Sea coast along to Danzig, via Elblag and Olstyn to the Masuri sea-plateau until Gizycko. From there through central Poland via Bydgoszcz and Frankfurt/Oder back to Berlin. On the way back we fought against strong head wind. Because we cycled through so many forests, the heat (35º) in Masuren and wind on the way back, were not too big an obstacle.

The campgrounds are good and at night supervised, At least the ones which are affiliated with the Polish Camping Federation. On the remaining sites are partially catastrophic sanitary conditions. Some of the toilets are closed from 23h to 07h (e.g. Gizycko although member of pfcc.) Before our departure I wrote to the Polish Camping Federation (E-Mail: biur@pfcc.info) and got a map, marked with all campsites of Poland. Under (www.pfcc.info) you will find a lot of information about Poland. I thought north Poland is a flat country to cycle but it is not, except for some sections around Elblag and on the way back at Frankfurt/Oder. Most parts are rolling hills, 20 to 40 meters. If I arrived at the top and stepped firmly in the pedals, sometimes I got to the next hill without changing gears.

The tour lasted from 3 July to 27 July 2007. The distance was 1990.71 km.

My personal impression of this journey:

I noticed that Poland takes an upward trend, constructing roads and houses everywhere. Still the prices are very favourable, particularly in non-tourist areas. I noticed, nearly each third house has a new roof. The fronts are not always renovated yet however the roofs are new.

I experienced the population as very friendly and helpful.
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Tuesday, 03. 07. 2007. Berlin - Parsteinersee 82.53 km.
The first Subject to photograph is opposite the station in Berlin. A sand sculptures exhibition.

We follow the compass on my handlebars in a northeastly direction. Soon we find the way out of the city to Bernau, via Eberswalde and Chorin. We arrive in Parstein in the early afternoon. At the Parsteinersee the campground stretches over 3 km. along the lake. We cycle 3 km to the village to get dinner.

There we meet two Dutch women who cycle around East Germany. They are already one week on the road and tell us what terrible weather they have had. Not a cheering up, but they can't spoil our bicycle ride.

Wednesday, 04. 07. 2007. Parsteinersee - Gryfino 76.97 km.
With a banana and a müsli for breakfast we cycle from Parstein to Arnemünde. At the roundabout in the city a baker makes an advertisement for a good breakfast. It is the right time to take the first break. And actually such a rich breakfast we don't get everyday. We visit the Marien-church and converse with an employee of the church. He gives us a folder about the church. I read that 1254 is the year of completion.

As we start cycling on, it begins to rain. In Schwedt we cross the river Oder, there begins our Poland round trip. We put on Pelerine and spat and cycle direction Baltic Sea. We go through small villages however there is no opportunity to take a rest and have a coffee. In Gryfino we find a hotel to stay for the night.

Thursday, 05. 07. 2007. Gryfino - Szczecin (Stettin) 33.95 km.
We take off with rain and it doesn't look like it will change the next few hours. With the right rain protection we cycle on and hope to find a cosy place to take a break in the coming villages. After 33 Km. we see a Kebab shop who offers coffee too. A spoon full of coffee is put into a cup, pouring cooking water over it, some milk and the coffee is finished. You have to be careful not to swallow the coffee grounds.

Before Stettin finally it stops raining and we come to the Tourist Information. With a plan of the city, it is simple to find the way to the youth hostel. We are happy the sun is coming again so we can take a stroll through the city.

Friday, 06. 07. 2007. Szczecin (Stettin) - Dziwnovec 104.15 km.
Despite the confusion of bridges over the river Oder-delta we find the way northward. On side streets and mostly through forests we cycle to Lubczyna and Goleniow. Here we find even several restaurants and we can select between several coffee brands, the usual with coffee powder and two types of soluble coffee, Tschibo or Nesskaffee.

North of Goleniow we come on the E 65. It is a beautiful new street, with a smooth surface and a broad hard shoulder. We cycle 24 km. through the forest. In intervals local people along the road try to sell self picked blueberries and mushrooms, some of them also offer honey. After about 100 km. we reach the Baltic Sea and find in Dziwnovec a 4 star campground for the night. This time it has been a beautiful sunny day with intermittent clouds.

Saturday, 07. 07. 2007. Dziwnovec - Kolobrzeg 67.91 km.
With a müsli and some fruit we start the day with lot of tail wind along the Baltic Sea. After a while we take the inward bound road to Trzebiatow where we arrive by noon.

On the market we buy for Sunday. In such a catholic country the shops will certainly be closed. What we don't find on the market, we buy in one of the many small super markets. ("sklep" in Polish). Sometimes we cycle past a Pizza or Kebab shop or see a China restaurant but we want to try out the Polish kitchen. It looks like the Polish don't go out for lunch or dinner. On terraces we see people eating some bread they have brought from home and order something to drink. After 68 km. we set up our tents on a 3 star campground in Kolozbreg.

Sunday, 08. 07. 2007. Kolozbreg - Darlowo 86.08 km.
It looks like it has rained last night, however the sun dries the tent before we pack it. When we leave Kolozbreg we notice that all shops and supermarkets are open. We did not expect that on a Sunday. Perhaps an exception, Kolozbreg is a bathing resort at the Baltic Sea.

In the strong tail wind we move forward very fast. Before Koszalin we see a restaurant with western standard. A cosy corner, coffee from a coffee machine, clean toilets and furnished with a very good taste. Pictures and wall decoration make us think of Bavaria. The prices are of western standard as well.

We cycle another 3 km. and leave the E 28 which lead to Gdansk. It is nevertheless pleasant to cycle through the country although the very crowded road with broad hard shoulder isn't more dangerous. In Darlowo we reach a 2 star campground, but very pleasant and clean. Darlowo is a bathing resort with many holiday guests, a port, sailing boats, and war ships.

Monday, 09. 07. 2007. Darlowo - Leba 113.21 km.
Today we cycle with tail wind and beautiful cycle weather. The route we cycle on is marked green on my map. (Beautiful stretches). After 50 km we reach a somewhat larger city, Slups. I cycle about 50 meters ahead on a pavement for cyclist and pedestrians. A man draws my attention and point to my Sister who lies on the pavement. She pulls herself up and tries to pick up her bicycle. Many people are there but nobody will help her with the heavy loaded bike. All go right past her. For me it is incomprehensible, however in a city obviously normal. We disinfect the grazes on her knee and are both glad that it is not much worse. The transition from the road to the pavement is not flowing. If you don't cycle rectangular it can be dangerous, like crossing the rails.

At 17.00h we arrive in Wicko. The only opportunity to get dinner is in a Pizzeria. We ask the owner whether it is possible to try the Polish kitchen. To our surprise she suggests some Polish meals. You only have to ask!! To Leba it is only 12 km. and we can select among the 7 campsites there.

Tuesday, 10. 07. 2007. Leba - Lebcz 81.51 km.
Today we have to wear Pelerine and spats. The rain doesn't stop this morning. In addition we take the wrong way and make a detour of 10 km. We come across a restaurant named Eden. The owner addresses us in the German language. He worked for many years in Cologne. His son, who helps him, still lives in Cologne and wants to remain there. He is born and raised in Cologne and is here on holiday. They have built up a beautiful restaurant with a new compiled garden.

Fortunately the rain stops in the afternoon and we cycle on in direction Puck. Shortly before Puck we see a sign with "Wolny Pokoj" (free rooms). We decide to remain here and dry our tents in the shed, where we also put our bikes. The woman of the house speaks only Polish. We make ourselves understood by using our hands. After a while the grandmother comes and the language problem is solved. She still knows the German language from former times.

Wednesday, 11. 07. 2007. Lebcz - Gdansk 52.63 km.
Before our departure I clean and spray the chains of our bikes, so that they run again as smooth as new. After 9 to 10 days, a few of them rainy, it is not luxury. At the first gas station I control the pressure in the tires and we start off towards Gdansk.

Traffic increases and the cycle paths become ever more catastrophic. Sometimes so bad there is nothing else we can do but to use the road, sharing with the cars. But we are not the only ones who do it. Starting from city boundary the cycle paths becomes very good. The large road leading into the city is called Grunwaldzka. On this road No. 240 is the Schroniska Mlodziezowe. (youth hostel) There are two other in Gdansk but this is the best one for us. This road leads into the centre. We receive a room for two nights and make ourselves comfortable. After a shower we cycle into the city without luggage.

Thursday, 12. 07. 2007. day of rest in Gdansk 19.10 km.
In the polish youth hostels you don't get breakfast, however Danzig is an exception. We have luck, it doesn't rain and the sunshine increase by the hour. It is a very beautiful city, the fronts of the houses remind me of those of Amsterdam. A folder of Danzig shows the buildings worth seeing. First we go to the Marien Basilika. The calendar-clock in the Basilika is the most interesting built by a Dutchman in the beginning of the 15th.century. It still works exactly up till now. It is noticeable, that the grave inscriptions are all in the German language, i.e. in the Middle Ages this country was inhabited by Germans.

At the Motlawa (the river through Gdansk) stands the crane, the landmark of Gdansk, In front of the "town hall" is a large place (Dlugi Targ). It is overrun by people looking at the many painters, entertainers, clowns and some dressed up and standing quietly like statues. At the Mariacka on both sides of the street are stands selling all kinds of amber, necklaces, bracelets and fossils preserved in amber The whole Baltic Sea coast is well known for amber.

The way back to the youth hostel is simple to find, from the station to the north and we are on the Grunwaldzka.

Friday, 13. 07. 2007. Gdansk - Elblag 72.47 km.
Today we leave Pommern and arrive in the province Masuren. To get through Gdansk is easy. We cycle on red cycle paths through the whole city. Then we take the E77 outside Gdansk. This new road has a 2 meter wide hard shoulder. We see construction work at different places. We see boards in Polish text and the blue Europe emblem with the many stars. I assume that some Euros flow in this work.

Because the countryside here is so flat, the street straight and the wind from the rear, we are early on the campground of Elblag. After two nights in the youth hostel and one B. and B. it is time to pitch the tent with such nice weather.

We are surprised how beautiful the old part of town Elblag is. The houses are renovated and there are many possibilities to find a cosy place to drop in and have a nice cup of coffee. We get acquainted with a Polish dessert the "Malesniki" pancake filled with fruits, decorated with whipped cream, syrup and sugar powder. You can get those pancakes in all variations, sweet and as spicy dishes, with mushrooms well seasoned.

Saturday, 14. 07. 2007. Elblag - Dywity 116.94 km.
The first 20 km. we follow the new E 77. Then turn eastward and cycle through sleepy villages to Orneta. The roads are good out of town, but in built-up areas sometimes very bad. In Orneta we turn to the south and get the wind from the side.

In Lubomino four cyclists sit on a terrace and eat bread, brought from home. A woman introduces herself as Erika, speaks German well and takes the functions of interpreter. She explains about the Polish customs and above all the Polish kitchen. I write the name of different meals in my notebook and hope to find some on the menu tonight. We have to try out "pierogi, (paste filled with beef) brigos, (pot with meat) and malesniki (filled pancakes), she explains.

In Dywity we overlook a Camp sign and make a detour of 14 km. But the campground is fantastic and lies on a little lake.

Sunday, 15. 07. 2007. Dywity - Pasym 44.45 km.
If I had to give this day a headline, I would write "on a super road through the forest". The first 8 km. is the exact opposite. The road is closed for cycling, but there is a cycle path through the forest. For mountain bikers no problem but with luggage it is impossible. We try about 500 meters. It is so steep that pushing the bike is even impossible. We decide to take the forbidden road and hope there isn't too much traffic and the police are still sleeping on this early Sunday morning.

We have a good ride to Olsztyn and get a good breakfast at the first bakery we see (a sweet breakfast). We don't notice at all that it is Sunday. All business and coffee shops are open. Now the beautiful route begins. The road winds itself through the forest for 25 Km. To begin a hilly landscape with cornfields, then forest and the last part along lakes until we arrive in Pasym.

There a biker comes to us and asks where we are from and whether he can help us. He works in Germany and is in its homeland village on holiday. He leads us to the campground and offers himself as an interpreter at the reception. That is good, we wants to use the washing machine. No problem, we have to give the laundry to the employee and get the washed clothes back. Well that is an offer! We go into the little village where the celebration of the year takes place. We meet two bikers from Belgium who cycle around Masuren. They are from the Dutch part of Belgium so we can talk in Dutch.

Monday, 16. 07. 2007. Pasym - Mragowo 62.38 km.
A quiet road leads to Dzwierzuty. A small village with only a "Sklep" (food shop) I would like to buy a few ties. Yesterday I have used all my reserves to repair my tent pole. It was broken and I had to splint it with tent pegs. I show a man and ask him whether I can by such ties. He understands and says the name in Polish. I write it in my notebook so I can ask and buy them in a larger city without problems. After shopping we continue cycling. At the end of this village a man get out of his car. I recognize him as the man who I asked about the ties. In his hand he holds a bundle of them. While we where shopping, he went home to get some ties.

People rarely greet here, if I say "Dzin Dobre" (good day) they give an answer, but they don't say it first. I thought the Polish people are not very friendly. It is surely a mistake. It must be traditional. I also experience great helpfulness when asking for direction.

Once more it is time to clean the chains. Therefore I go to a gas station, buy ca.50 ml. gasoline, mix it with 10% oil and I have a very good chain cleaner. The oil is protection against rust to the chains. I scrub the chains with a brush, let it dry and spray them with silicone-pray. When finished, the chains work as new.

We go past a restaurant with a very large parking lot. There are a few trucks, a good indication for home cooking. Indeed, different Polish meals are on the menu like the description from the cyclist we met the other day. We start with Pierogi and finish with Malesniki and coffee. In Mragowo we meet again the Belgian couple and spend the evening together. Today we have had a maximum temperature of 35º.

Tuesday, 17. 07. 2007. Mragowo - Gizycko 40.79 km.
The campground in Mragowo is on the street to Ryn, exactly the road we want to cycle on. Like nearly all days here in Poland, rolling hills. I thought the landscape is flat in North-Poland but that is not true. At the first break the temperature is already 30º. We continue to cycle to Gizycko and decide to stay here. The plan is to cycle to the Russian border, another 30 Km. but it is too hot for cycling.

We meet two German globetrotters cycling for Estonia via Russia. For the passage through Russia they bought a visa which cost €100. We enjoy the free afternoon with a stroll through the village, along the harbour and with an ice cream.

Wednesday, 18. 07. 2007. Gizycko - Szczytno 117.37 km.
07.30 we are ready for the way back to Berlin. The weather is excellent with a maximum temperature of 25º and the roads are tip-top. We cycle along the lake Jez. Jagodne and take a break at a beautiful place with view on the lake. At coffee time we arrive in Mikolajki. The very touristy resort is crowded with people. If you have a boat or rent one it is an ideal place to make holidays. The many lakes are connected to each other by channels. Canoeing is very popular.

We cycle on a gravel road through the forest. We hear a cat miaou miaou, and see a skinny cat. We only have bread and cheese spread. I prepare the bread, cut it in little pieces and the hungry cat scoffed until the last bit. We cycle nearly all day through forests. That is super, because we now have head wind and the forest protects us. We stay on a campground which isn't listed on the map of the Polish Camping Federation.

Thursday, 19. 07. 2007. Szczytno - Ilawa 112.28 km.
The first half of the day we continue cycling through forests with good road surfacing. The second part of the day the landscape changes to grain fields and meadows.

A campground belongs to a hotel with a lake and the city nearby. Tired from the second part of our tour, we are glad of the fact that the hotel is adjacent to our tent. After we pitch our tent and have a shower, we don't have to go into the city for dinner.

Friday, 20. 07. 2007. Ilawa - Swiecie 108.06 km.
In Lasin a group of young people presents leaflets of Jesus Christ and want to discus with us. I am not unhappy they only speak Polish.

A "Cuckiaria" (patisserie) is the only shop to buy something for a break and we make ourselves comfortable in the park of the village square. In Grudziadz, the largest city we come through today, we cross the river Wisla. The source of the longest river in Poland is in the Czech-Polish border area, which flows through Krakow, Warsawa, Grudziadz and at Gdansk into the Baltic Sea.

We want to avoid the very crowded E75 and take a side street. It gets more bumpy the further we cycle until the surface of the road changes into soft sand, although it is drawn on the map as a normal road, Of the two possibilities, 10 km back and take the E75 or a few km. pushing our bikes, we decide on pushing. The E75 isn't inviting with so many trucks.

The campground is marvellous, lain at a lake in the forest. There are a few taverns in the proximity. The site is not associated with the Polish Camping Federation, so no control or monitoring. Fortunately we have earplugs. When I awake around 06.00h, the disco music is playing with full power.

Saturday, 21. 07. 2007. Swiecie - Znin 107.18 km.
We don't want another experiment today and take the E75 with its wide hard shoulder. We expect not many trucks on Saturday morning. After 21 km we can leave and follow the river Wistla to Bydgoszcz.

We notice today again what a subordinated role the bike has. In the city we have to carry the bikes up stairs, and on the other side of the railroad overpass down again. Before Znin we cycle on an avenue where trees on both sides of the road are full of mistletoe. I never have seen so many of them.

The campground is very calm, contrary to yesterday. The tent neighbour regards us as Dutchmen and addresses us in perfect Dutch, for a German unusually good and nearly without accent. He grew up in Elten, a village close to the boarder of Holland and Germany and this village changed from one to the other. Now it is Germany. They are a retired married couple and drive with their caravan through Europe until September.

Sunday, 22. 07. 2007. Znin - Lubasz 99.78 km.
We say goodbye to the couple we talked to yesterday. They offer a cup of coffee and we start our cycle tour for today.

The wind has turned overnight and we get forward faster than expected. The clouds get darker and after 30 km. the first drops are falling. We find a good shelter for us and the bikes and have to wait for ¾ hour to continue. In the afternoon we see the sun again sometimes.

In Lubasz, where we stay overnight, there is very large church, not proportional to the size of the village. It looks like a monastery but isn't by closer inspection. It is recently renovated.

Monday, 23. 07 .2007. Lubasz - Mierzyn (Miedzychod) 75.91 km.
Today we again have head wind, but the many forests which we drive through partially protect us.

Wonki is our first rest place. We ask an old man whether he knows a restaurant in this village. He says, I bring you to the best one, and shows us a "Kawiarnia" (coffee house). We invite him to a cup and he function as interpreter. He is 79 years and many of his age speak German. He tells of the war and his life, what changed in the last few years. He is grateful that life is getting better.

We cross the river Warta two times before we arrive in Mierzyn, our stage goal for today. It is not easy to find the campground because there are no signs. We finally find it far away from the village centre into a forest of birch trees.

Tuesday, 24. 07. 2007. Miezyn - Lubrza 84.57 km.
From approx. 06.00h to 07.30 it rains. We wrap up our tents wet and hope for sunshine today. On the map it looks like we have to go left and find the way along the Warta. After 10 km. we see the first sign board which tells us we are on the wrong road. There is no other possibility than cycling back to the initial position in Miedzychod.

Fortunately we have to go only a few Km. on the busy road to Kostrzyn. A new road leads to Miedzyrzecz. We are happy that the clouds disappear and we find a place to dry our tents and have a picnic. The temperature rises more and more. In the afternoon we get a thunderstorm of only 15 minute. We have time to find a good shelter. A beautiful rainbow, say we can cycle again.

In Lubrza we pitch our tents for the last night in Poland under a shelter. Like that we are sure the tents are dry tomorrow.

Wednesday, 25.07.2007 Lubrza - Helenesee (Frankfurt/or) 85.16 km.
We cannot avoid the 2/E30 but a large part of it. With 2 meters of hard shoulder it is not that bad.

At the border in Slubice we change the remaining Zlotis into Euros and cycle over the Oder bridge to Frankfurt/Oder. 23 days ago as we crossed the river Oder we had pouring rain. We now have a bright sunshine as a compensatory justice. In Frankfurt we buy a cycle map from Frankfurt to Berlin. I can see on the map that there are many cycle routes and coherent until Berlin.

7 Km. south of Frankfurt there is a recreation area at the Helenesee with even two campgrounds.

Thursday, 26.07.2007 Helenesee - Peetzsee (Erkner) 76.83 km.
At the campground is a super market so we can have breakfast in front of our tent.

The map is worth gold. We take the cycle tracks which lead mainly through the forest. (and there is a lot of forest) Müllrose with its pretty market place invites for the first break. After ca.25 km., we pass the Kerstdorfer sluice gate. There is a restaurant with beer garden where many cyclists have lunch. A married couple from the environment of Duesseldorf who cycle with the German Cycle Club, comes to our table. We have a nice chat. Their daughter works in Berne, so Switzerland is well known.

The way leads through Fürstenberg, along the Spree to Peetzsee.

Friday, 27. 07. 2007. Peetzsee - Berlin (main station) 48.69 km.
We can take it easy, the train to Zurich leaves 21.25h.

Through forests and along lakes we cycle direction Berlin. Through the city is no problem. We go on cycle paths also in the city. We cycle via the Oberbaumbrücke, past the Brandenburgertor and further to the Reichstag with the many visitors and the large meadow. A long queue is waiting patiently for the entrance.

The rest of in the afternoon we make a sightseeing tour by bike through Berlin.

Saturday, 28. 07. 2007. Baden - Bremgarten 19.81 km.
We sleep well in the couchette, which punctually 09.00h arrives at Baden. After 20 km. we are home again in Bremgarten and make the last photo with Bremgarten as background.

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